Imagine a sprawling, verdant sanctuary rising majestically from the concrete jungle of a bustling metropolis. This is Griffith Park, a colossal, mountainous, and wild oasis nestled in the heart of Los Angeles, a city renowned for its sprawling urban landscape. Yet, despite its natural grandeur, Griffith Park remains quintessentially Los Angeles—fun, sunny, and so iconic that if it were a person, it would undoubtedly have its own star on the nearby Hollywood Walk of Fame.
At 4,210 acres, Griffith Park is a behemoth compared to other extraordinary city parks in the United States. San Francisco's Golden Gate Park, with its 1,000 acres, and New York's Central Park, at a mere 843 acres, pale in comparison. Griffith Park's peaks soar above these flat competitors, boasting an elevation gain of nearly 1,500 feet, making it practically vertical in orientation. Unlike the meticulously planned "wild" designs of Golden Gate and Central Park, Griffith Park remains largely uncut, with much of it preserved as a wilderness area for over a century. This untouched beauty adds to its allure, making it a true gem in the urban landscape.
Griffith Park is not just epic in scope; it is a treasure trove of history, recreation, and natural splendor. The park's history is as fascinating as its landscape. It all began with a tax write-off so significant that it warranted its own deed, reminiscent of the Declaration of Independence. A copy of this 1896 deed, which reads, "To be used as a PUBLIC PARK for the uses of recreation, health and pleasure for the use and benefit of the inhabitants of the said City of Los Angeles, forever," can be seen in the park's visitor center. The original 3,000 acres were donated by mining magnate Colonel Griffith Jenkins Griffith. Despite his philanthropy, Griffith's personal life was fraught with controversy. A public advocate of Prohibition, he once shot his wife in the eye in a drunken rage (she survived and subsequently divorced him).
Before Griffith acquired the land, it had a rich history. It was once occupied by José Vicente Feliz as part of a Spanish land grant. Even earlier, the Tongva, an Indigenous people of California, thrived in these hills. The Autry Museum of the American West, located within the park, offers a deep dive into these eras. The museum's exhibits, which range from discussions about the impact of Spanish missionaries on the Native population to displays of modern Western art, are surprisingly sensitive for a place named after "America's favorite singing cowboy." Visitors can explore artifacts such as Billy the Kid's actual rifle, a recreated saloon, and memorabilia related to TV cowboy Gene Autry.
One of the park's most iconic attractions is the Griffith Park Merry-Go-Round. According to a sign on a bench (now on display in Disneyland), it was here that Walt Disney got the inspiration in the early 1950s to build his eponymous amusement park. The carousel has a storied past, including a race riot in 1961 when police were called on a group of young Black boys jumping on and off it. Currently closed for repairs, the Merry-Go-Round still holds a special place in the park's history.
For those seeking adventure, Griffith Park offers a challenging scramble up to its highest peaks on the east side. Armed with a paper map from the visitor center and relying on the spotty reception of your phone's map app, you can embark on this journey. Along the way, you'll pass the old Los Angeles Zoo, which closed in 1965. Much of it was built in the 1930s by Works Progress Administration (WPA) crews. The old animal enclosures are now open for exploration or picnicking. On a sunny April day, you might even find a gathering of Furries, a subculture known for dressing up as anthropomorphic animal characters, hanging out in what was once a polar bear cage.
The hike up to Bee Rock peak is not for the faint-hearted. The narrow dirt trail snakes upward, with such a steep incline that hikers often slip-slide on all fours, grabbing onto shrub roots for purchase as tiny lizards dart under their hands. At 1,800 feet above sea level, the 360-degree views of the city are breathtaking—well worth the effort of the sweaty climb. It's not uncommon to see a majestic red-tailed hawk hovering on an upward air current up there.
On the way back down, you can explore Amir's Garden, a semi-tamed area packed with plants and trees that an immigrant from Iran named Amir Dialameh began hauling up by hand in the early 1970s when those trees were just saplings. A sign in the park quotes Dialameh, "In the land of the free, plant a tree."
For film buffs, Griffith Park is a living movie set. "Cathy's Corner" off Mt. Hollywood Drive is famous for the singing-and-dancing bench scene of "A Lovely Night" in the film "La La Land." Although the bench is no longer there, the view is still spectacular. The Griffith Observatory, another iconic landmark, has been featured in numerous films, including "The Terminator," "Bowfinger," and "Rebel Without a Cause." A bust of James Dean, star of "Rebel," stands outside the observatory. Built 90 years ago, the observatory is free to explore, and admission to its excellent planetarium is only $10. Inside, you'll find a small museum with a collection of fascinating exhibits, including a Foucault pendulum, a camera obscura, an actual moon rock, and a Tesla coil that shoots lightning bolts during short presentations throughout the day and night. The observatory is open every night until 10 p.m., offering stunning views of the city lights below and the stars above.
Just outside the hilltop observatory, you can get an eye-level view of the legendary Hollywood sign, restored and preserved primarily by the late Playboy publisher Hugh Hefner. While you can no longer touch the 45-foot-tall letters, hiking above or below them offers a unique experience. The sign originally read "Hollywoodland" as it was an advertisement for a real estate subdivision below.
Another iconic spot in the park is the Batcave (aka Bronson Caves), made famous by the 1960s "Batman" television series. A modest hike alongside prickly pear cacti from the parking lot of the Bronson Canyon entrance will take you there. Although you can't enter the cave due to the risk of falling rocks, you can get a clear view through the chain link fence across the entrance.
At the base of the park, the free Travel Town Museum is a paradise for kids and train enthusiasts alike. Full of vintage trains you can climb through and miniature trains you can ride, it's an ideal setting for a birthday party. The "town" has been featured in numerous films and TV series, with a large sign listing them all, from "The Monkees" to "Quantum Leap."
For a more relaxed experience, the Fern Dell nature trail section of the park offers a gentle, winding path with cascading waterfalls. Just above it lies The Trails, an outdoor coffee shop where you can enjoy pastries, coffee drinks, and light lunch fare on concrete picnic tables under shady trees. It's a perfect stop before or after the hike up to Griffith Observatory on the southwest side of the park.
If you're looking for a place to unwind after a day of exploring, Golden Road Brewing's beer garden, located just over the LA River from the old zoo and Autry Museum, is a lively spot. With great beer, delicious food (try the fried avocado tacos), and a fun atmosphere, it's the ideal place to relax and talk about your favorite parts of the park or plan your next adventure.
Griffith Park is more than just a park; it's a living testament to Los Angeles' history, culture, and natural beauty. With its diverse flora and fauna, recreational opportunities, and iconic landmarks, it truly is the greatest city park in the nation. Whether you're a local or a visitor, Griffith Park has something to offer everyone, making it a must-see destination in the City of Angels.
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